We've just experienced a time of great mysteries; there's talk about a virgin giving birth to a man that was a god. For us mortals, it's easier to see that there are fewer mysteries - Santa and some milleniums of dionysian gifts. Let's show our gratitude; everything is not explicable.

When the Grand Master of the Golden Palate hits my desk this Xmas with a green plastic bag that reveals Pedro Rovira Gran Reserva 1980, and some yet unexperieced joys, my needs for mysteries are more than fullfilled.

This Pedro has developed a brownish red, and wears golden threads in Spanish style. From the darkness of the labels I find that I don't know the grape - yet another mystery; Ull de Llebre. Spain is wonderfull. I love surprises one can learn from.

We opened the bottle on the 2nd day of Christmas when the winter was snapping and cracking the wood of our house. The bottle has ex- and inhaled for hours by the warm stove letting us sniff the burning sun of Tarragona. The taste has soft delicacy to be enjoyed. - We dine with traditional Finnish Xmas treats, and finish by taking our glasses to the tobacconists' veranda in -25°C. Finally a wine giving proof that a Mediterranean is right in his certainty that real enjoyment is at only 15-18°C. Bless the Finnish winter that makes mistakes aright! The joys that have been condensed into the wine return to this liquid from their ethereal worlds. Soft tannines, fine aromas. A celebration finishing a fine year.

And yet another mystery; I've also experienced Pedro '85 just to warn you. Vintages and cellaring (?) are important. I thank Your Steepness, the Grand Master of the Golden Palate, for the 1980 from your cellar!