Wine of the Week
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©Hannu
Lehmusvuori

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Week 7/98


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ENATE TINTO 1996

Vinedos y Crianzas
del Alto Aragon s.a.
Somontano, Spain
49,90 mk ~US $ 9,10


Natural art...
ENRIQUE's AMPHORAS!
Retailer's bold gesture
- or a mistake?
ENATE
Pintura original para Enate de Enrique Torrijos

First of all - this wine has a good taste. Even though it's atypical to Spain: cabernet sauvignon and merlot. And there's an immediate recognition of the Enate touch that was made familiar by the latest art wine. There's some similarity - dark, round tastes - though the previous aquaintace was a tempranillo.
Somontano is a new area, and so is Enate. Unprejudiced winds blow in the mind of Jesús Artajona, the winemaker. And the nearby Rioja is present. Tradition has not been abandoned. We are at an intersection of the new and the traditional.
Blackcurrants, blackberries, and dark peppers. And the choice of the oak is very delicate because even the vanilla is dark.
An interesting subject of study to all of us seeing Spanish soil capable of nurturing many kinds of wines with excellence. A reinforcement to the rivulets I hope are enriching international wine.

A puny, piquant constellation of thougths steps up because of the looks of the bottle. Our retailing monopoly, Alko, lauched this very same bodega as it's latest art wine. The next launch from the same bodega carries a label with more imagination, more art. If I were the art-wine artist I would be weeping tears of envy. But it's a pity the greater thought of designing the whole label has been overlooked at Enate. Wine is always interesting when combined with the tastes and aromas, a knowledge and understanding of tradition, personal views, culture and enjoyment. And when all the ingredients are there, the main point, the wine and it's taste, becomes aesthetics. And that is just what wine is all about: aesthetics and poetry.
I'll grab my hat and bend my back to Enrique Torrijos and his naivistic surrealism.


If your heart is warm with happiness, you'll need a glass - if sorrow chills your heart, have two! Anim.

"Avidly testing reasonably priced wine with a view and a vision in mind."
Hannu

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