Wine of the Week
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©Hannu
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Week 15/98


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ViNegre
Crianza 1995

Fundació Gala · Salvador Dalí
Aldeasa · El Padruell
Vilanova i la Geltrú - Penedès - Spain
875 PTS ~US$ 6


The better part of perfume?

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The grand master of surrealism, the creator of the Paranoiac-Critical Method, and the wizard of the brush, Salvador Dali, or actually his alter-ego Avida Dollars, is probably better known for his perfumes than wines. That's exactly why a crianza carrying Dali's and Gala's names is so fascinating. Is it once again true that the best grapes are transformed into wine, and what remains, even after cognac, is good enough for perfumes?

After visiting the intoxicating TEATRE-MUSEU DALÍ in Figueres one might just drink plain water and call it the best of wines, or sprinkle wine behind the ears and believe to be flying in a cloud of perfume. But:

ViNegre! Definitely a Catalonian red wine, and especially a Dali wine.

Becoming a wine bought in a museum, it has already developed a brownish colour, and requires a longish airing to come alive. Cabernet Sauvignon and ull de llebre give it quite a strong and balanced scent. Along comes a glimpse of black-currants and a hint of acids. The taste opens up immediately, and pleasurably, at the tip of the tongue. Mature grapes, a hint-of-a-hint-of-a-hint of raisins, and a nice amount of tannines and acids. The mildly oak-flavoured taste is extinguished rapidly, if the wine is tasted too early. Having breathed long enough it lingers in the taste-buds, but doesn't reveal new secrets. The pleasurable, mature first impression prevails.

A speciality, and a good wine worth getting aquainted with, but ofcourse unable to compete with Dali's brush. Is there a wine to do that?
If measured with PQR, I'm inclined to believe that Dali's wine equals Dali's perfumes. Even though the perfumes have the advantage of being available in the local department store all around the world. But on the other hand the perfumes have this disadvantage: there is very little to read on them. I can't experiment with my Spanish which just manages to make the back labels understandable. Nor can I enjoy the challenge when everything there is in Catalan.

Aquest vi s'ha elaborat amb raïm de las varietas cabernet sauvignon, ull de llebre procedents de les nostres vinyes de "El Padruell" a Vilanova i la Geltrú. La fermentacion s'ha realitzat en dispósits d'acer inoxidable, i tot seguit s'ha envellit a botes de roure durant un any.


If your heart is warm with happiness, you'll need a glass - if sorrow chills your heart, have two! Anim.

"Avidly testing reasonably priced wine with a view and a vision in mind."
Hannu

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